Ploče to Sarajevo by train
When you're trying to get from place to place in the Balkans, train travel isn't often an option. Buses are the norm, ferries if you're on the coast, or car hire if you're feeling adventurous. There is one route, however, that's not talked about often - the Sarajevo-Ploče railway!
Most travellers will take this line in the opposite direction, providing access to Mostar from Sarajevo. The train continues from there, all the way to Croatia, stopping for the day before returning in the afternoon. If you happen to be going in that direction, you can tag along!
Ploče Station
When arriving into Ploče via the bus, you're in luck - the bus terminal also happens to be part of the train station, meaning you're right there.
If you arrive into Ploče by ferry, you're also quite well off. It's a short, flat, five minute walk from where foot passengers disembark to the train station.
Getting to the station, we were confused by the closed off and derelict fronting of the station building. Translating the sign read "Building closed for renovation". If you arrive at the front of the building and it's still not open, walk your way around to the left, where you'll be able to access the platforms.
Boarding and ticketing
When you get to the platform, you'll see your train sitting there waiting for departure. The train staff will emerge from the station building when it's time to depart, and beckon you onboard.
Once you're on the train, take any seat you like - there's no seat reservations. You'll have the train to yourself at this stage, with the option of both standard and first class cabins, as well as, surprisingly, couchettes! You'll find luggage storage in the carriages, and ample space overhead.
When the train departs, the conductor will come through and offer you tickets, only accepting cash. We sat in standard, which cost 29.8 BAM per person one way (~15 euros). You'll likely not have any Bosnian currency, but they accept Euros. We were given change in BAM, which ended up being quite convenient!
Border crossings
You'll soon pull to a stop at the Croatian border town of Metković. Croatian police officers board the train, and walk through the carriages with a handheld equivalent of the new Entry Exit System. They'll take a photo of your passport, a photo of you, and then be on their way.
The next town you stop in is Čapljina - your first stop in Bosnia & Herzegovina. Here you'll have a similar experience - Bosnian border control officers walk through the train with a tablet and scan your passports.
All in all, this was an incredibly smooth border crossing experience - we didn't even need to stand up!
Continue to Sarajevo
From there you're on your way to Sarajevo, following the Neretva river. You'll pass through a good chunk of agricultural land before getting to Mostar, where the train will fill up with other tourists returning from day trips.
Once past Mostar the scenery gets considerably more dramatic, winding your way slowly through Blidinje Nature Park. Enjoy the views of the steep mountains and large hydroelectric dam reservoirs. The track hugs the left bank of the river for the most part, so if you sat on the right hand side you'll be treated to some spectacular scenes.
When you eventually disembark in Sarajevo, you'll have a few options to get in to town. The trams are available, and the 1 line take you right to the Old Town. If you're lucky, you may find a few taxis waiting to take passengers. If you're feeling up for a walk after sitting down for a few hours, talking from the station to the Old Town took us ~40 minutes, and was all down hill!
Top tips
- Sit on the right hand side of the carriage when your first board - this will give you better views later on.
- While the trainset did have a bar car, it wasn't staffed when we took the train (late-May), so I'd stock up on snacks and drinks while in Ploče.
- Bonus: If you arrive into Ploče with some time on your hands, Restaurant Roko does some amazing food on the grill, and also offer draft Pilsner Urquell (🍻).
All in all, I'd highly recommend taking the train from Ploče to Sarajevo. It's not a route most folks ever really consider, but if you're planning to visit Croatian islands like Korčula it's a surprisingly convenient way to make the trip inland.
We wanted to share our experience as there's really not much to be found online about this route. We've got a few more of these kinds of non-standard routes coming up, and we'll share our experience as we go. Hopefully this has been useful to some of you!
